![]() Is the "20" the only marking? Unusually on old anvils there are 3 numbers on one side like 1 2 3. It is a wrought anvil because you can see where the steel plate is forge welded on. I have never seen an anvil with hold downs forged into the base. Let me know if I can help looks to be in good shape. If it has no weight markings you can probably put it on a bathroom scale. I would value this anvil between $3.00 and $5.00 per pound. A 3 legged stand is always stable, like a milking stool. I would modify the stand to make it a 3 legged stand with the third leg under the horn and angle them all out about 17 degrees. If there are no numbers on the side it is also probably an American forged anvil. If there are numbers close together not separated by a space it is probably an American forged anvil and the number is the actual weight. Now add them all up and you get the weight of 112 + 56 +3 = 171, the weight of the anvil. The last number is actually pounds so in this example 3 pounds. The second number is quarter hundred weights so a quarter hundred weight is 28 pounds. So the first number is the hundred weight number. That is a 100 weight marking but does not designate 100 pounds, it is 112 pounds. They were the sole supplier of American made anvils to the North during the Civil War.It looks to be in good shape. Can't find the info you seek, contact me directly or on this forum and I will get you the answer.īTW, Fisher made anvils from the early 1850's to 1979. If you want more information on FISHER anvils, look up my past posts. I'm an ageing civil war reenactor and thinking that this slightly post-war anvil would be suitable to use for a wartime impression in the future. I like this anvil and hope i'm just misunderstanding something and my concerns are unwarranted. I understand the tool steel face gives it a great working surface, but is it not more prone to cracking under heavy blows? Am I correct in assuming that the horn is cast iron, not tool steel? I wouldn't expect to be doing heaving blows on the horn, but wouldn't a cast iron horn be rather fragile? I keep reading about how cast iron anvils are bad, but no one seems to think it is an issue with these. I really appreciate your input guys. But I'm a little confused about the cast iron aspect. This was only possible in the later years due to advancements in metallurgy and manufacturing. If you were to find a Paragon or Soderfors anvil, you're buying a solid chunk of Cast Tool Steel. The wrought iron is a very durable material. Were you to buy a Trenton, Peter Wright, or Hay Budden, you're buying an anvil that has a wrought iron body and a tool steel face welded on. In the case of Fisher Norris anvils, the tool steel face plate covers the entire top, including the top of the horn. ![]() If folks then had known what a mint condition anvil was going for today. Break an anvil, go to the store and get another. Of course, back then the anvil was seen simply as another rather easily replaced tool. This happens across the spectrum, on anvils that have both wrought iron bodies and cast iron bodies. You will see anvils that have the face plate broken off in places, but this is the result either of a manufacturing defect or serious abuse. Only the top surface saw any real "abuse", so only the top surface needed to be the more expensive, but durable, quality steel. In olden days, anvils were made of lesser-quality metal for the majority of their body because the lesser quality of metal was easier to make, thus cheaper, and would stand up to the use it was under. The fisher anvil, however, is a chunk of cast iron with a tool steel plate welded onto the top. ND, cast iron anvils like you can buy from Grizzly are just that - solid chunks of cast iron. ![]()
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